Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is a retinoid ester used in cosmetic skincare. Retinol is another vitamin A derivative. The HPR studies discussed here tested multi-ingredient formulas, so they do not establish that HPR alone is gentler or more effective than retinol.
What is HPR retinoid?
“Retinoid” describes a family of vitamin A-related ingredients. It includes familiar cosmetic ingredients such as retinol, as well as medicines with specific indications and instructions. HPR belongs to this broader family. A cosmetic containing HPR should never be treated as interchangeable with a prescribed retinoid. [1]
HPR retinoid vs retinol in published research
Retinol has a longer research history. Published HPR studies include formulas with several active ingredients, which makes it difficult to isolate HPR’s contribution or compare it directly with retinol.
One study followed 71 women for 16 weeks, comparing an HPR-and-peptide serum with a fractional CO2 laser treatment. Several authors worked for the cosmetics manufacturer. The study assessed that serum as a whole, and its comparator was a procedure rather than a retinol cream. [2]
A separate paper examined a serum combining retinol, HPR, peptides and silybin. Its findings likewise concern the combination. Neither study establishes that HPR alone outperforms retinol. [3]
Is HPR gentler than retinol?
A previous reaction to retinol may prompt you to consider another formula. HPR’s name cannot guarantee better tolerance. The concentration, delivery system, other ingredients and your skin’s response all matter.
The studies cited here also provide no dependable conversion between HPR and retinol percentages. A higher number on one label cannot be used to calculate an equivalent strength in the other.
Choosing a formula
Look for a clearly named retinoid, complete ingredients and practical application instructions. When a brand cites research, check whether it studied the finished product or a different preparation.
EYKOH Collagen + Retinoid Cream with Mushroom combines HPR with hydrolyzed collagen, Reishi and Chaga extracts, and moisturizing ingredients. Its product page sets out the formula and nighttime directions. The studies discussed above did not test this cream.
If you use a prescription treatment or have persistently reactive skin, discuss a new retinoid with your dermatologist. Avoid retinoids during pregnancy, and seek clinical advice before use while trying to conceive or breastfeeding. [4]
For a practical starting routine, read our guide to how to start using a retinoid.
Sources
- American Academy of Dermatology. Retinoid or retinol?.
- Kruger and colleagues. Efficacy of Topical Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate-Peptide Product Versus Fractional CO2 Laser in Facial Aging, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2025.
- Shen and colleagues. An Innovative Serum With Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Peptides, and Silybin Improves Mild Photoaged Facial Skin in Middle-Aged Chinese Women, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2026.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Dermatologist-approved pregnancy skin care.
By EYKOH Wellness. Reviewed October 24, 2026. General skincare education; ask a qualified clinician for advice about your own skin.